Grooved Arete, Tryfan: A Classic Climb in North Wales

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Hailed as one of the UK’s best and most popular climbs at its grade, Grooved Arete is one of three classic routes on Tryfan’s East Face.

Two years after climbing the Overlapping Ridge Route (First Pinnacle Rib), we were thrilled to scale another classic climb on Tryfan.

This isn’t a technical breakdown of the route, but rather a visual journey to inspire you to tackle Grooved Arete yourself, with or without kids in tow. With my two adventurers, then aged 11 and 14, we climbed Grooved Arete in May 2024.

As always, we enlisted the services of an amazing climbing guide – Bob Thomas at Contour Outdoor. I highly recommend Bob’s expertise for any climbing or mountaineering activities in the UK or beyond. Once you’ve experienced the best, it’s hard to settle for anything less.

Table of Contents

About Tryfan

Located within Eryri (Snowdonia) National Park’s scenic Ogwen Valley, Tryfan, a renowned peak of the Glyderau group, reaches an impressive 917 metres, ranking as the fifteenth-highest mountain in Wales.

Tryfan’s rugged appeal is undeniable. Its steep, rocky slopes challenge even seasoned climbers, while scramblers find adventure on routes like the North and South Ridges. Despite its challenging terrain, Tryfan’s breathtaking beauty remains a powerful draw for hikers and climbers alike. Stunning scenery, dramatic peaks, and a unique character make Tryfan a magnet for all who seek adventure.

About Grooved Arete

Grooved Arete, a multi-pitch Trad climb on Tryfan’s East Face, spans 230 metres and is graded HVD 4a. The approach takes about 1 – 1.5 hours via the Heather Terrace.

Stats about the Grooved Arete Climb

Starting Point: Car Park at Gwern Gof Isaf Farm & Campsite, Capel Curig, Betws-y-Coed, LL24 0EU | Open in Google Maps
Distance: 5.7 km
Elevation Gain: 583 metres
Minimum Elevation: 298 m
Maximum Elevation: 824 m
Grade: HVD 4a
Height: 230 m
Pitches: 8 (P1: 4a, 30m | P2: 12m | P3: 50m | P4: 30m | P5: 4a, 50m | P6: 20m | P7: 20m | P8: 25m)
Climbing Time: 5.5 hours (including long waiting times of about 2.5 hours behind other climbing parties & a long lunch break due to the same reason)
Elapsed Time: 9.5 hours (incl. walk-in & walk-out)
Ordnance Survey Map: OS Explorer OL17 Snowdon & Conwy Valley
Overlapping Ridge Route – Route Map & GPX File: View Route Map & Download GPX File

Grooved Arete - Tryfan - Route Map — Route Map | Grooved Arete, Tryfan

Grooved Arete – Elevation Profile

Grooved Arete - Tryfan - Elevation — Elevation Profile | Grooved Arete, Tryfan

Parking for Grooved Arete

Aim for an early arrival, as the lay-by on the A5 near Tryfan’s North Ridge (close to the Gwern Gof Uchaf campsite) fills up quickly. By 8:30 am on our trip, it was already full. In that case, park at the Gwern Gof Isaf Farm & Campsite (parking charges apply) adding 1.5km (approximately 20 minutes) to your walk-in (which is what we did).

Grooved Arete, Tryfan | Leaving the Gwern Gof Isaf Farm & Campsite car park

The Walk-In

Directions from the Gwern Gof Isaf Farm & Campsite: First, head south (away from the A5), crossing the stream. Then turn right (west) to pick up the footpath. After about 1.5 km, you’ll reach the level of the similarly named Gwern Gof Uchaf campsite. Veer left (southwest) here until you reach a fork in the path in front of Tryfan Bach. Here, continue left (south) to follow the path until you reach the back of Tryfan Back where you’ll turn right (west) which will lead you to the start of the Heather Terrace.

Pro Tip: Passing Tryfan Bach on your right is both, easier for way-finding as well as quicker than passing it on your left.

Shorter Option (if available): If you manage to secure a parking spot on the A5 lay-by near the Gwern Gof Uchaf campsite, you can save 1.5 km (20 minutes) of walking. Simply walk through the campsite and continue straight ahead to pick up the footpath as described above.

Grooved Arete, Tryfan | Gwern Gof Uchaf Campsite

Driving towards Tryfan on the A5 from Capel Curig, the Heather Terrace on its East Face is impossible to miss. A distinctive, seemingly clean path traverses the mountainside. But don’t be misled by its initial appearance! Once you’re on the Heather Terrace, the path unfolds with unexpected twists and turns, more like a mace than a straightforward walk. This is where the adventure truly begins!

The following images, captured on a previous trip, offer a glimpse of the terrain and stunning views you can expect on the Heather Terrace.

Grooved Arete, Tryfan | View towards the A5 (north) from the Heather Terrace

Grooved Arete, Tryfan | View towards the south from the Heather Terrace

Our approach took roughly 1 hour and 15 minutes, bringing us to the base of the climb. Here, the popularity of the Grooved Arete route was evident. We weren’t surprised to find around six other climbing parties scattered along the route – some already tackling the ascent, while others patiently awaited their turn.

While waiting our turn, we geared up, adjusting our layers to suit the conditions and swapping our hiking boots for climbing shoes.

The Climb

Upon reaching the base of the climb, we spotted the letters GA scratched into the rock, confirming the start of the Grooved Arete climb. It brought back memories of a similar marker we encountered a couple of years back at the beginning of the Overlapping Ridge Route (First Pinnacle Rib (FPR)) climb.

Growing kids, growing climbs! Sharing a rope is a thing of the past, so two guides it was again for this multi-pitch adventure. Our amazing guide Bob was joined by Kasia – an aspiring Mountaineering and Climbing Instructor (MCI).

This meant split teams for the climb: my son paired with the expert Bob, while my daughter & I formed a “girls’ team” with Kasia. It was a first for me – climbing with someone new after five years of trusting Bob implicitly! But Kasia’s fresh perspective was invaluable, and experiencing different guiding styles made it a win-win for everyone!

With the teams ready, we set off on Grooved Arete, Bob leading the way.

Pitch 1
The climb’s first pitch begins with a notorious polished corner, one of the route’s most challenging sections.

The stunning views throughout make this climb all the more special.

Grooved Arete, Tryfan | View towards northeast and the A5

Pitches 3 & 4

Pitch 5
Pitch 5 delivers a revelation. The source of the climb’s name, Grooved Arete, becomes abundantly clear. Here, the grooves take centre stage, offering a thrilling experience of their full glory.

The panoramic views to the south are truly breathtaking.

Pitch 6
Chess anyone? The Knight’s Move on Pitch 6 lives up to its name – it’s a tricky sequence that demands some creative footwork.

Pitch 7

Elated, we topped out on the Grooved Arete climb of Tryfan after 8 pitches. What an amazing climb!

The Walk-Out

There are several ways down from Tryfan. Last time, when we climbed First Pinnacle Ridge (FPR), we descended via the South Ridge. The FPR spits you out at Tryfan’s summit, Adam & Eve, which is further to the left (south) compared to the Grooved Arete route.

Bob, our guide, opted for the North Ridge as the quickest way down. I was excited about this route as it was new territory for us on Tryfan.

Initially, we short-roped as there were some steep sections to downclimb. Once past these, it was all about finding the most efficient route across rocks and boulders until we reached the junction that leads either up to the Heather Terrace or down towards Tryfan Bach. From here, retrace your steps back to the campsite via Tryfan Bach.

Once you reach the boulder field, turn right and follow the faint path that leads to the junction. Head straight down for Tryfan Bach as a right turn takes you back up to the Heather Terrace.

With Tryfan Bach on your left, continue north along the footpath.

At the junction near the Gwern Gof Uchaf campsite, turn right to head back to the car park at Gwern Gof Isaf Farm & Campsite.

Frequently Asked Questions

WHAT IS THE CLIMBING GRADE OF GROOVED ARETE?

Grooved Arete is graded Hard Very Difficult (HVD).

HOW LONG DOES IT TAKE TO CLIMB GROOVED ARETE?

It took us approximately 5.5 hours (including long waiting times of about 2.5 hours behind other climbing parties & a long lunch break due to the same reason) to climb Grooved Arete. This time accounts for all five climbers in our party – two guides, my two children, and myself. A smaller group would likely complete the climb in less time. In total, our climbing day lasted 9.5 hours, including the walk-in and walk-out from/to the car park at the Gwern Gof Isaf Farm & Campsite.

WHAT’S THE ELEVATION GAIN FOR THE GROOVED ARETE CLIMB?

The total elevation gain for the Grooved Arete climb including the walk-in & walk-out is approximately 583 metres.

HOW HIGH IS THE CLIMB ON GROOVED ARETE?

Grooved Arete is a multi-pitch Trad climb spanning 230 metres.

WHERE IS GROOVED ARETE LOCATED?

Grooved Arete is located on Tryfan’s East Face in the Ogwen Valley in the Glyderau mountains in Eryri (previously known as Snowdonia) National Park in North Wales.

WHERE TO PARK FOR GROOVED ARETE?

Car Park at Gwern Gof Isaf Farm & Campsite, Capel Curig, Betws-y-Coed, LL24 0EU | Open in Google Maps

WEATHER FOR THE GROOVED ARETE CLIMB?

As with any activity in the mountains, always check the weather forecast.
The Mountain Weather Forecast by the MetOffice website or app is very useful.

Where to Stay near Tryfan

During our climbing trips in Eryri (Snowdonia), Wales, we stayed at a variety of campsites and accommodations.

Camping: Our primary choice is the Dolgam Campsite, just a 10-minute drive from the Gwern Gof Isaf Farm & Campsite car park. This simple yet clean campsite offers a relaxed atmosphere; and they even have a Bed & Breakfast option for those who prefer a comfy bed. Highly recommend it!

Gwern Gof Isaf Farm & Campsite caters to all preferences, offering camping pitches, glamping pods, and even a bunkhouse. This convenient location makes it a perfect base camp for those wanting to tackle Tryfan without requiring a long approach.

The YHA Idwal Cottage youth hostel is a great choice for a convenient and social stay, especially with kids. Their en-suite bedrooms make logistics a breeze. We highly recommend it!

Apartment in Bethesda: Unfortunately, our stay at a holiday apartment in Bethesda was a disappointment due to its uncleanliness.

Final Words

Adding Grooved Arete to our climbing repertoire made it our fourth multi-pitch adventure. On this trip I learned that there were 3 Classic Climbs on Tryfan’s East Face. Now that we’ve already completed two – with the Overlapping Ridge Route (First Pinnacle Rib) being the first one – I’m keen for us to tackle the final one in the coming years.

Once again, our guide Bob at Contour Outdoor delivered an unforgettable day by pitching the difficulty at just the right level for us. It’s one of the reasons why, once you’ve found the best, it would be difficult to settle for anything less.

The highlight of this climb was undoubtedly when my son got his climbing shoe stuck in a crack. As our guide Bob put it: “The highlight of many highlights was A calmly taking his climbing shoe off when it got stuck, then putting it on again while the parties above us watched in amazement at his cool-headedness.” Well, I guess nature is the best teacher for cool-headedness after all!

Adventuring solo with kids doesn’t mean going it completely alone; it’s about taking the initiative to plan and lead an outdoor adventure for your family. Don’t hesitate to book a guide! I only recommend providers we’ve used and trust. For activity ideas and guide recommendations, check out our Top 20 Family Outdoor Activities in Wales article!

Our climbing trips push the kids to be patient and cooperate for everyone’s safety. These experiences teach them invaluable life skills about responsibility that can’t be replicated in a classroom. It’s incredible to witness their growth and maturity unfold during each climb. Their personalities, strengths, and weaknesses are laid bare, and by the end, these traits are subtly reshaped. They grow, they learn, and they mature into more confident and responsible young adventurers.

Happy Climbing!